The Black Duck County Road

Above Lake Julia where the Black Duck Road
Branches off to the Right from the Leech Lake Trail

Those who traveled it called it variously the Lyons' School Trail or the Langor Trail or the Black Duck road. The Beltrami County Commissioners called it the Black Duck County Road. They apparently thought of it as an extension of the Fosston Trail. There was a need for such a road. The area north and east of Blackduck Lake was a prime area for homesteading, but the only means of access was from Red Lake.

the Black Duck County Road approved...

On Nov. 12, 1894 the commissioners approved a petition to locate a county road to be known as the Fosston County Road, the first road building project in the county. The next month, at a special meeting at Black Duck, Dec. 10, 1894, they approved the Black Duck County Road.

The petition praying for the laying out of a County Road running from Black Duck to Turtle Lake was laid before the Board and the Board being satisfied that Thirty Days Notice had been given.

Proceeded to appoint a committee to view Said Road.

All three commissioners, F.E.Dudley, J.P.Nygaard, and G.C.Gordon were appointed the committee to view the road.

At the same meeting, Robert Kettleson was engaged to survey the Black Duck Road, the road to run from Turtle Lake to Black Duck. On March 8, 1895, Kittleson [The clerk spells his name in two ways.] was voted $101.49 for surveying and making plates for the Fosston and Black Duck Roads.

where the trail ran...

The road began from the Leech Lake Trail on top of the Continental Divide at Buena Vista. It then ran in a northeasterly direction to Blackduck Lake. From the Leech Lake Trail it ran along the narrow ridge between Bass and Sandy Lakes on the south and Jackson and Peterson Lakes on the north. The U.S.G.S. quadrangle Whitefish Lake, which is built from aerial photos, shows a scar from the old road beginning at the Leech Lake Trail. That scar runs into the present gravel road, built beside or on the old Trail, running between Bass and Sandy on the south and Peterson and Jackson Lakes on the north. The old road then ran south of Cranberry Lake, south of Medicine Lake then to its terminus at the north end of Blackduck Lake.

Gravel Road Built along the Trace of the Black Duck County Road

The road did not run from Turtle Lake to the present town of Blackduck. Blackduck village was not platted until 1900. Even then, the village was a mile from the south end of the lake. When the commissioners in 1895 speak of Black Duck, they mean the township, not the village. The name of the township has been changed to Hines. Meetings at Black Duck were held at Commissioner Dudley's place.

getting the work started...

There was no delay in getting the job under way. On March 9, 1895, the County Commissioners voted $47.64 for Kittelson "for surveying Black Duck Road" and for "making 4 plats at 2.00 each." They also authorized money for cutting out 17 miles of the Black Duck Road

On Motion it was voted that the following Bids [be accepted] for Cutting out one rod wide on the Black Duck Road beginning at the North East cor. of Sec 1 Town 149 Range 31 and Terminating at Turtle Lake

The amounts contracted for cutting and clearing varied from $11 to $35 per mile. The costs were higher on the Turtle Lake end than on the Blackduck Lake end. On Dec. 2, 1895, $ 200 was authorized for the road; and on Aug. 3, 1896, another $800 was voted.

Contracts on the Fosston County Road had specified that all stumps and trees be cut even with the ground. Although the minutes did not record that requirement, contractors on the Black Duck road probably did the same. The commissioners did specify that corduroying on the Black Duck Road should be sixteen feet wide and not less than four inches thick.

using the road...

The Black Duck County Road was an essential artery for access into the areas south of Red Lake and east of Buena Vista. The area around Blackduck Lake was late in developing because until the Black Duck County Road, there were no cleared roads in the area. (Settlers filled up Beltrami County from west to east, taking the accessible lands closest to Fosston first.) In 1894, those seeking homesteads had to depend upon roads cleared by loggers or by settlers who had cleared tracks to their land. Some settlers found their way to areas around and north of Blackduck Lake by going to Red Lake first (either by the Red Lake Trail or the Leech Lake Trail or by boat), coasting along Red Lake to the mouth of one of the rivers emptying into Red Lake, then traveling up the river. The establishment of the Black Duck road meant that homesteaders could travel from Fosston or from Leech Lake to Buena Vista then follow a new road to Blackduck Lake and their claims.

The road was also useful for those who wished to go from Bemidji to Black Duck. By 1896, Freeman Dowd, who had run the stage to Fosston, had begun a stage and mail route from Bemidji to Buena Vista to Langor, north of Blackduck Lake. William Hines, who settled south of Blackduck Lake, recalled early experiences for the WPA project:

I well remember the stage from Bemidji into this country and the rough roads it came over. The driver wold not let you ride unless you would let him strap you to the wagon, so you would not be bumped out. A friend of mine was thrown clear of the wagon when it hit a bump on a trip we made.

There must have been a good deal of traffic between Bemidji and Black Duck. Ernie Bourgeois reported that when he came to Bemidji in 1898, a better route was being surveyed to link up with the Black Duck Road because of sink holes along the more direct route between Bemidji and Blackduck. He remarks that "there was quite a bit of traffic up that way." (Mainly Logging, p. 24.) Bourgeois is talking about an alternate route, and since it ran from Bemidji it probably ran to the south end of Blackduck Lake.

The Black Duck County road seems to have brought about a relationship between Buena Vista and the township and the village of Blackduck. Early on, in 1897, the County Commissioners had met at LaBrie's stopping place in Buena Vista to discuss the Black Duck Road; then in July, 1896, Commissioner Dudley had been listed as a witness when Jimmy Cyr proved up his claim.(Beltrami Eagle, July 7, 1896) After the road was built, in 1900, a load of lumber was sent from Buena Vista to the new village of Blackduck for the Presbyterian Church which was being built. (Jepson. Blackduck 1900-1905, p.25) This could well have been a gift from the church or a member of the congregation at Buena Vista. The Reverend J.B.Astwell, pastor of the church at Blackduck, took services at Buena Vista in 1901 and was there for the dedication of the church in 1902. Edward LaBrie, who had run the Turtle Lake Hotel, opened a bakery in Blackduck in 1900. Also in 1900, N.T.Forthun, who had operated a store in Buena Vista and a stock farm, until the buildings burned, opened a restaurant and bakery in Blackduck.

county support for roads...

The first Beltrami County Commissioners were appointed and served from 1894 to 1897. F.E. Dudley was from Black Duck (township); J.P.Nygaard was from Popple; and Gordon C.Allen was from Moose. The two roads the county supported were from Black Duck to Turtle Lake and from Moose to Popple. The existing road from Moose to Bemidji got a little help with repairing bridges, but the first funds that were given had to be matched by Bemidji and Moose. The Fosston Trail got no support separate from the Red Lake Trail, but the Fosston Trail was an existing trail which, poor as it was, did not need constructing. Yet the usefulness of the Black Duck County Road depended upon traffic from either the Fosston Trail or the Leech Lake Trail, neither of which the commissioners supported financially.

With only one or two exceptions the first County Commissioners supported the building of roads, not the maintenance. Very likely, though they never recorded the thought, they expected the homesteaders along the route or those who used the trails to help with the maintenance. The county was not organized until 1897 and had little enough money. Most of that was spent on administration and roads.

Freeman Dowd, on his stage route from Bemidji to Langor, drove his stage along the Black Duck County Road to its terminus in Black Duck township. The road north to Langor was not on a trail which had been subsidized by the county. Still, the county road made it possible for him to get as far as Black Duck. For settlers and suppliers, it meant they could move directly from the railhead at Fosston into the newly opened country east and north of Buena Vista.

problems on the trail...

The fact that a road was built by the county did not mean it could be traveled easily.

The roads [between Buena Vista and Black Duck] have been so bad that it has been impossible to get any mail over them the last two or three weeks. . . .

H.A.Langord is running the postoffice full blast and the settlers are in hope that they will get their mail oftener. (Eagle, July 3, 1896)

Mrs. Lydia Wentworth, whose husband homesteaded on Blackduck Lake, related her experience on the early trail to a worker on the WPA historical project.

Mr. Wentworth and family moved to the homestead on Blackduck Lake. This being long before the country was settled and the advent of the railroads¸ the only way of traveling was over the Fosston trail and the "tote" roads leading to the different logging camps. Her husband had a span of ponies and a buggy and drove in over this trail, the trail growing less and less traveled as they followed it and finally ending in floating corduroy. The ponies, not being accustomed to this kind of road, became frightened and fairly "danced" along, nearly upsetting the buggy. This frightened Mrs. Wentworth and she, holding her baby in her arms, leaped out of the buggy and landed in the bog up to her knees in the soft mud. When asked by her husband why she did this, she replied, "I wanted to save the life of at least one of my children." She had two other children at that time.

Written by Carl Clauson, Senior Interviewer of WPA Historical Project No. 3769.

Ida Tollefson Bakken also remembers the Black Duck Road.

Mother had this homestead in the town of Popple and Dad wanted land also. He decided to go to Blackduck in Beltrami County, where they were opening stone and timber. He took a 160-acre stone and timber claim near what is now Hines.

The problem was, of course, that they had to live at least five months on each homestead. They would live on Mother's homestead a while and then in the spring, usually, they would go to Blackduck to Dad's homestead. They would make the move with horses and as there were no through roads they went through swamps and woods. There was a road part way that went by Buena Vista. They always used to camp on top of a big hill at Buena Vista overlooking Lake Julia because mosquitoes weren't so bad on top of the hill -- more breezy. . . .

One trip I remember was when I was three years old and my uncle Helleck was with us. He had taken a homestead not far from the Gilstead place [on Gilstead Lake, southeast of Hines]. We were going through a swamp and the mosquitoes were like a swarm and they were stinging us. I cried and poor Alex tried to get me out of there. He took me on his back and tried to step from one kind of high spot to the other and finally got me to high ground. The horses couldn't pull the wagon through and they discovered the wheel had gotten caught in roots in such a manner they absolutely couldn't get it out; they had to unload that whole load of household things right there in the swamp and take off the wheel. They finally got the thing out and put together again, and we went on.

We camped on top of the high hill near Buena Vista. I cried because the mosquitoes were eating me up. Dad made a big smudge for the horses and a smaller smudge for the tent. Mother put the smudge in the tent and opened the flap and the mosquitoes all took off and she shut it real quick, and we got into bed.

The next thing I remember it was early morning and Mother took us all down to the Lake and washed our faces and hands in that cold water, and I cried some more. That was the last trip we made up there as a family.

North Country History, II.4 (1981), pp.49-51. © Hilda R. Rachuy

The Black Duck Road could only feed people into the area. They had to find other trails to get to their homesteads. J.W.Speelman's Eagle reported on Oct. 23, 1896: "We are reliably informed that there is a new road cut through to Gull Lake which shortens the distance considerable. This road leaves the county road at John Lyon's place."

the end of the Black Duck Trail...

The prime years for the Black Duck Road were from about 1895 to near 1902, when the railroad reached the village of Blackduck. It probably had less traffic than any of the other roads since it was at the end of the line. Though the commissioners' minutes tell us a good deal about the building of the road, they are mostly bare facts of contracts let and finished and paid off. There are few comments to show the effect the road had on the travelers, homesteaders, loggers, and tote drivers, comments that might help us to see what the road meant to the human beings who traveled it.

By 1902, the Minnesota and International had reached the town of Blackduck, but by then the purpose for which the Commissioners had authorized the Black Duck County Road had been achieved -- the country was settled.

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